World, this world.

It would be, in short, one of the most extraordinary years in modern British history. Of course, I didn’t know this on that drizzly March morning in Dover. I didn’t know anything really, which is a strangely wonderful position to be in. Everything that lay before me was new and mysterious and exciting in a way you can’t imagine. England was full of words I’d never heard before—streaky bacon, Belisha beacon, serviettes, high tea, ice cream cornet. I didn’t know how to pronounce ‘scone’ or ‘pasty’ or ‘Towcester’ or ‘Slough,’ I had never heard of Tesco’s, Perthshire or Denbighshire, council houses, Morecambe and Wise, railway cuttings, Christmas crackers, bank holidays, seaside rock, milk floats, trunk calls, Scotch eggs, Morris Minors or Poppy Day. For all I knew, when a car had an L-plate on the back of it, it indicated that it was being driven by a leper. I was positively radiant with ignorance. The simplest transactions were a mystery to me. I saw a man in a newsagent’s ask for ‘twenty Number Six’ and receive cigarettes, and presumed for a long time afterward that everything was ordered by number in a newsagent’s, like in a Chinese takeaway. I sat for half an hour in a pub before I realized that you had to fetch your own order, then tried the same thing in a tearoom and was told to sit down.

The tearoom lady called me love. All the shop ladies called me love and most of the men called me mate. I hadn’t been here twelve hours and already they loved me. And everyone ate the way I did. This was truly exciting. For years I’d been the despair of my mother because as a left-hander I politely but resolutely declined to eat the American way—grasping the fork in your left hand to steady the food while cutting, then transferring it to your right hand to lift the food to your moth. It seemed ridiculously cumbersome, and here suddenly was a whole country that ate the way I did. And people drove on the left! This was paradise. Before the day was half over, I knew that this was where I wanted to be.